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Life on wheels (big vehicle edition)

How to actually enjoy living in a motorhome

Living in a motorhome sounds romantic. You wake up somewhere new every morning, make coffee with a view, and watch the world go by from your window. And it is romantic, sometimes…but it is also practical. Things work differently when your home moves. Let us walk through the stuff that makes the difference between a smooth trip and a frustrating one. Ertu tilbúinn?

Staying warm when Iceland really turns ice-land

Well, Iceland has ice in its name for a reason. Even in summer, the nights can be cold. In winter, "cold" is an understatement. You need a vehicle with proper heating, and luckily for you, motorhomes have it.

Most motorhomes come with a type of heater called a "Webasto heater." It runs on the same diesel as your engine. You press a button, and warm air comes out. It is simple and effective.

Likewise, your motorhome has a battery that powers the lights, the water pump, and the fridge. It does not power a hair dryer, a space heater, or a coffee maker. If you want to bring your laptop, your phone, and that portable espresso maker, you will need a 12 volt inverter or a campsite hookup.

One more thing about living in a small space. Condensation happens. You will wake up with water on the windows. That does not mean your motorhome is broken. It means moisture has nowhere to go. The fix is simple: simply crack two windows on opposite sides of the vehicle before you go to sleep. Fresh air pulls through, and the moisture leaves. It makes a real difference, believe us.

The art of emptying tanks

Now that you’re an expert on ventilation and condensation, let’s move on to water, toilets, and tanks.

Your motorhome has two water systems. One with clean water for drinking, washing, and cooking. And then, wastewater from the sink and shower. The toilet is separate and usually uses chemicals to break things down.

You fill the clean water tank at campsites or service stations around Iceland. You empty the wastewater tank and the toilet cassette at designated dump stations. Most campsites around the country have them, and major fuel stations like Olís and N1 often do too, so you have plenty of choices.

Please, never empty anywhere else. Not on the ground. Not into a regular toilet. And absolutely not into nature. Það er bannað! It's forbidden, and for good reason.

Dumping is nothing complicated, and after a couple of attempts, you’ll be able to do so in the blink of an eye. That said, we do recommend planning your route around dump stations rather than leaving it to chance. Don't wait until you're running on empty (literally). By then, your options get limited fast.

Driving a motorhome 

Driving a motorhome is different from driving a regular car, and the sooner you make peace with that, the happier you will be.

On a straight stretch of highway with no wind and light traffic, a motorhome feels perfectly manageable. You might even start to think that all the warnings you read online or in this content section were exaggerated. Then you arrive at a one-lane bridge with a line of cars waiting on the other side, or you try to find parking at a popular waterfall where every spot seems designed for a small SUV, or you find yourself on a narrow gravel road with a sheer drop on one side and an oncoming tour bus that does not seem interested in moving over.

None of these situations are disasters, but they will make you aware of your size in a way that highway driving does not. You will still fit in most parking lots, because Icelandic parking lots are not as tiny as you might imagine, but you will also find yourself thinking about how to position the vehicle in a way that you never thought about when you drove a compact car back home. That is normal, and it does not mean you made the wrong choice or that you won't be capable. Actually, most people get used to driving motorhomes within an hour. 

Wind is the real challenge, and it is the one thing that surprises even experienced RV drivers who visit Iceland for the first time. A tall, boxy vehicle catches wind like a sail, and Iceland has more wind than almost any other place you have probably visited. The trick is to slow down well before you think you need to, keep both hands on the wheel, and give every other vehicle on the road extra space. If the forecast calls for wind over fifteen meters per second, which is about fifty-four kilometers per hour, you should find a safe place to pull over and wait. No one will think less of you for waiting out a storm, but plenty of people will think poorly of the tourist who tried to drive through it and ended up in a ditch.

Before you leave this section, let us tell you about one more wind-related danger that nobody thinks about until it happens. When you open the door of a motorhome on a windy day, the wind can catch that door like a sail and bend it all the way backward, which damages the hinges and costs a lot of money to repair. We have seen it happen more times than we can count, and it is always someone who said to themselves, "It's not that windy." Hold onto the door every single time you open it, even when you do not think you need to. That habit will save you from an expensive mistake and an embarrassing conversation with the rental agent.

How Iceland’s road tax works now

It sounds more complicated than it actually is.

First, a little background on why this exists: For a long time, Iceland paid for road maintenance the same way most other countries do. They added taxes to diesel and gasoline, and every time someone filled up their tank, a small portion of that money went toward fixing potholes, plowing snow, and maintaining bridges. It was not a perfect system, but it worked well enough for decades.

Then electric vehicles started showing up on Icelandic roads in serious numbers. Locals bought them, rental companies added them to their fleets, and more travelers started choosing hybrids and EVs for their trips. Fewer people buying fuel meant less money flowing into the road maintenance fund, even though those same electric cars were still driving on the roads and wearing them down just like any other vehicle.

The government had to find a way to cover the gap, so starting January 1, 2026, they introduced a per-kilometer road tax that applies to every rental (and privately owned) vehicle in the country. That means your motorhome, your campervan, your little Suzuki Jimny, all of them are included. The money goes directly toward keeping the roads in good shape for everyone, including you.

How this tax actually affects your rental

The tax is calculated based on how many kilometers you drive, which means the farther you go, the more you will pay. That sounds straightforward, and it is, but the exact way the tax gets collected depends on the rental provider you choose.

Some providers build the tax into their daily rate, so you never see it as a separate line item. You just pay a slightly higher daily price, and the provider handles the rest. Other providers prefer to charge the tax at the end of your rental, after they know exactly how many kilometers you drove. In that case, you will see it as a separate charge on your final bill.

Why this is not as painful as it sounds

When the road tax was first announced, a lot of travelers assumed their rental costs would jump significantly overnight. That has not happened, and here is why.

At the same time that the government introduced the road tax, fuel prices in Iceland dropped. Gas and diesel became cheaper than they had been in years because they no longer have the tax portion attached to them, which means you are spending less at the pump than you would have a few years ago. The road tax adds a small amount to your total driving costs, but the lower fuel prices take a larger amount away, so for most travelers, the overall cost of driving around Iceland has not changed much.

Think of it as a small step in one direction and a small step in the other. Það jafnast út, as we like to say. It balances out.

The answers you actually need before driving a motorhome in Iceland

Here is what you really want to know.

Q1 - How much can I drive? Is there a mileage limit?

You can drive as much as you want, and nei, you will not pay extra for it. Every motorhome rental through our platform comes with unlimited mileage, which means you do not have to worry about per-kilometer fees or daily caps

Q2- Do I need a special license to drive a motorhome?

Nei! For most of our fleet, a standard Category B (passenger car) license is all you need. If your license isn't in English or using the Roman alphabet, you'll need an International Driving Permit.

Q3 - Can I sleep at a rest stop or in a parking lot if I arrive late and campsites are closed?

Technically, no. The law says you must sleep at designated campsites, and parking lots and rest stops do not count. That said, if you arrive very late and there is genuinely nowhere else to go, most people will not bother you for a few hours as long as you are discreet, quiet, and leave early. The key word there is "discreet." Do not set up chairs, do not cook outside, and do not leave any trash. Treat it as an emergency option, not as a plan.

Q4 - How do I find campsites that are actually open, especially in winter?

Use an app like Park4night or Tjalda.is, which are updated by travelers and locals who actually visit these places. Google Maps is less reliable because campsites often show up as "open" when they are really just closed for the season.

Q5 - How do I know if my motorhome is small enough to drive on F-roads?

Most rental motorhomes are not allowed on F-roads at all, regardless of their size. To drive on F-roads, you must rent a 4x4 vehicle, and that’s not too common within the motorhome category. When booking online, please check for 4WD motorhomes that are F-road approved; otherwise, you cannot drive on mountain roads.

Q6 - How early should I book a motorhome for summer in Iceland?

As early as you can. Six months ahead is not too soon for June, July, or August. The best motorhomes, especially the most compact ones book up months in advance

Q7- Can I refill my water tank at any gas station, or only at campsites?

Já, yes! You can refill at campsites and at some gas stations, but not all gas stations have potable water hoses. Olís and N1 stations in larger towns often do, but smaller stations in remote areas may not. 

Q8 - How do pickups, lines, and inspections work?

When you arrive to pick up your motorhome, you will come into the office to check in for your reservation. This is where you hand over your documents and complete any remaining paperwork. Once that is finished, someone from the team will walk you out to the vehicle, show you the basics.

Take your time looking over the exterior and interior, and make sure any existing scratches, dents, or other marks are clearly written down on the paperwork.

During the summer season, Iceland gets very busy, and our office can have longer wait times than usual. We ask for your patience and understanding during these peak months because our team and our providers are doing their best to get everyone on the road as smoothly and safely as possible.

Q9 - Can I return my vehicle outside business hours?

Já, yes, this is possible with some of our trusted providers. However, this option is not available for every rental, and even when it is offered, it requires prior authorization from the provider.

Please contact us at info@traveltoiceland.is and we’ll check if this service is available for your chosen vehicle. 

Q10 - Can I take a ferry with my motorhome?

Yes, most providers allow it. Taking your húsbíll (motorhome) on a ferry can be a wonderful way to explore more remote areas of Iceland.

That said, while your rental provider may give the green light, the ferry company has its own set of rules. So before you plan your trip, please be sure to check directly with the ferry line to confirm whether your specific vehicle is allowed on board.

Q11 - Can I charge my laptop and other electronics without a campsite hookup?

Yes, but slowly. Your motorhome's 12 volt outlets, the ones that look like the cigarette lighter in older cars, can charge phones and tablets with the right adapter. For a laptop, you need a power inverter that converts 12 volt DC power to 110 volt AC power, which is what your laptop charger expects. Some motorhomes come with inverters already installed. Others do not.

Q12 - Winter tires are included?

Já, that is right. Winter tires are required by law from November 1st until April 14th, so all of our providers make sure their vehicles are equipped once the season starts. You do not need to ask for them, and you will not see an extra charge on your bill.

Q12 - Is it difficult to drive a motorhome in Iceland?

It’s different but manageable, believe us! These motorhomes are modern and easy to handle, but you must be mindful of strong winds and narrow bridges. Always check umferdin.is and safetravel.is before heading out.

Q13 - Are 4x4 motorhomes available?

Já, yes. If you plan on exploring the F-Roads (Highlands), you must rent a 4x4 motorhome authorized for F-Roads. Standard motorhomes are strictly for paved and well-maintained gravel roads.

Q14 - Can I cancel my booking?

Já, yes. You can cancel at any time. Please note that the initial 12-15% deposit is non-refundable as it covers the administrative costs of holding your specific vehicle.

Q15 - What is included in the rental price?

We believe "the best extras are not extra." Every rental includes:

• Unlimited mileage
• Basic insurance (CDW & PAI coverage)
• Local taxes (24% VAT)

Q16 - What is your fuel and water tank policy?

We have a "same-to-same" policy. That means you need to return the vehicle at the same level you received it; otherwise, refueling fees may apply.